The happiness cosmetic, the science around CBD, cannabidiol or cannabis.
In North America, the trend for cannabis products is strong. According to the research company BDS Analytics, the CBD market should exceed 20 billion dollars by 2024 in the United States.
What is CBD?
CBD, a molecule derived from hemp, vehicles a “forbidden scent” which is associated with the relaxing effects carried by cannabis. However, CBD, the only cannabis-derived active ingredient allowed, for use in cosmetics, does not contain THC. (Delta9 – tetrahydrocannabinol, a powerful psychoactive agent).
Several brands offer to their customers an approach to beauty that complements the use of cosmetic products. Thus, the search for happiness and well being, through cosmetics is in line with the values of existence. It’s perceived as essential, and could be perfectly in line with the new expectations of consumers.
CBD is a precious extract for the epidermis.
Hemp, Cannabis sativa L., (origin: Central Asia), has been used in folk medicine in Indo-Asian countries and as well as, a source of textile fibers for several centuries. Today, this plant is arousing growing interest in the world of cosmetics for various reasons:
- Firstly, thanks to its fatty acids and its ideal omega6 / omega3 ratio, hemp oil is extremely nourishing for the skin, whatever its type and age.
- Secondly, CBD, which is one of the main cannabinoids in hemp, is increasingly studied in the medical and wellness sectors for the many benefits it offers:
- reduction of pain sensation, etc.
Unlike THC, which is another cannabinoid present in hemp, CBD is not a psychoactive substance and is therefore not considered a narcotic.
How does CBD interact with our skin?
Cannabinoids have several effects on our skin: they regulate
- epidermal homeostasis,
- cell proliferation,
- wound healing,
- pain sensation
The CBD therefore has anti-inflammatory & repairing effects on the skin.
It has been shown that CBD, in keratinocytes (skin cells) irradiated by UVA:
- increases the activity of antioxidant enzymes,
- prevents lipid peroxidation,
- inhibits NFκB and stimulates NRF2, two transcription factors that are involved in modulating redox imbalance and inflammation. By inhibiting NFκB, CBD reduces the level of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Your epidermis is then soothed (reduction of redness and burning sensation).
In addition, topical application of CBD increases the thickness of the epidermis as well as the cytokeratins KRT16 and KRT17, which are associated with keratinocyte proliferation and wound repair. The epidermis repairs more rapidly.
What are the constraints for formulating with CBD?
Legislation is not harmonised in Europe on hemp.
In France, a decree specifies that the fibre and seed of Cannabis sativa L. are authorised for cultivation, provided that the THC content of the plant does not exceed 0.2%. For cosmetics, on the other hand, no trace of THC should be detectable in the finished product.
In other countries, such as Sweden, the regulation of CBD goes further: the only parts of the plant that are allowed to be cultivated are underground parts and seeds.
Luxembourg is based on EU regulations: only hemp seed oils from an industrial plant with a THC content of less than 0.3% are allowed for cosmetic use.
Switzerland, for its part, has also aligned itself with the European regulation and simply authorises the use of cannabis seeds and leaves not accompanied by a top, as far as CBD cosmetics are concerned.